Project: Car Rehabilitation is a Go-

I'm going to begin repairing my old '87 Honda Accord.

I'm beginning under the hood, and under the car first.

Installing all new struts/alignment, getting the brakes checked, hopefully the lines only need to be bled. Although, the steering wheel shakes when I brake lightly, which I'm thinking might be the result of a warped rotor.

I'm also getting the A/C checked out, and hopefully repaired as living in New Orleans in the summer time is gonna toast me good without it.

I'll be needing an oil change soon, but I'm gonna wait to see how everything else will pan out. I'm already looking at a 500 dollar estimate so far.

Also, my 3rd gear grinds when I shift into it at moderate to high RPM's (2500 and up). I usually let the RPM's drop before I try to shift into it, anybody know what this could be?

Once I get everything underneath situated, I'll begin Project: Look Pretty.

I got the struts replaced, oil changed (full synthetic), brakes checked, and A/C checked.

Turns out my A/C needs to be almost entirely replaced. Which would cost me about 900 dollars.

The damage for the maintenance today was 683 dollars.

I also need a new passenger side control arm. Which with labor, would cost me about 450 dollars.

Gettin' this car simply up to par is gonna cost me a few pretty pennies, but I'm gonna stick with it.

::just smile and nod as if you know WTF he is taking about::

-sigh-

Where's OV?

Hey Fras, just pee in it! That should flush it out!;)

Goodluck!

Why don't you just buy a new car?

I don't think you're supposed to use synthetic oil on an old Accord ...

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Originally Posted by Frasbee [Dear Guest/Member you have to reply to see the link.click here to register]

Also, my 3rd gear grinds when I shift into it at moderate to high RPM's (2500 and up). I usually let the RPM's drop before I try to shift into it, anybody know what this could be?

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could be your clutch. i don't know.

that sounds good. doesn't sound like too much work ;).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frasbee [Dear Guest/Member you have to reply to see the link.click here to register]

I'm going to begin repairing my old '87 Honda Accord.

I'm beginning under the hood, and under the car first.

Installing all new struts/alignment, getting the brakes checked, hopefully the lines only need to be bled. Although, the steering wheel shakes when I brake lightly, which I'm thinking might be the result of a warped rotor.

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if your rotor were warped that thing would grind.

it would be a really horrible, loud grinding sound and you wouldn't be able to stop.


does the whole car shake or just the steering wheel?

Only the steering wheel wobbles, very lightly, and only during light braking. If I brake hard I don't feel a thing.

A new car means obligatory monthly payments.

I haven't done any major maintenance on this old car in about 2 years. Not bad, really. Plus, I like this car. I still can squeeze 30+ miles per gallon out of this thing.

Short- I just did some light research and I read it's possible full synthetic can be not so good for the engine, but I've been putting full synthetic in this car the past 4 oil changes and I have not had any issues.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frasbee [Dear Guest/Member you have to reply to see the link.click here to register]

Only the steering wheel wobbles, very lightly, and only during light braking. If I brake hard I don't feel a thing.

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yeah, i think if it were your rotors you'd be feeling it anytime you put the brake down, it'd probably be worse at heavy braking.

balancing your tires might help with that.

a little honda will last you a long time. how many miles?

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Originally Posted by misombra [Dear Guest/Member you have to reply to see the link.click here to register]

if your rotor were warped that thing would grind.

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Not really true. If they're warped they won't grind, they'll just end up feeling like your car is shaking and pulsing when you stop. His are probably warped just a little and when he puts more pressure on the brake it isn't at noticeable. Mine did this when they started to warp.

Grinding would be very bad...that would be a result of no pad material left on your pads meaning you've got metal on metal. Which in turns means you'll almost always need brand new rotors because it will more than likely destroyed the rotor surface.

Take your rotors to a machine shop and have them checked out to see if they are warped and can machine them. There should also be a minimum thickness for your rotor make sure they stay within those limits. If you do find out your rotors are warped you must replace the pads because they'll be crap as well. Look into some decent pads as well. I put EBC Greenstuff in my mom's car and they're great pads for a daily driver. I personally use PBR Ultimates, and they've got a great feel to them when warmed up. But they squeel like mad! Which they're known for.

Oh and if you're going to bleed the brakes try ATE's Super Blue Racing fluid. Pretty well priced for a high boiling point. I have yet to get it to boil and I brake like a mad man.

I'm not too familiar with Honda suspensions but maybe bushings? Have you checked those out? I know with older Volvos that when the control arm bushings go bad they tend to cause shaking under braking that is similar to warped rotors. Also bad wheel bearings are known to do the same. But like I mentioned, I don't know much about Honda's.

As for the oil, I'd advise against running synthetic in an older engine. Unless you make sure you have no oil leaks and check to make sure your compression is good before running it. Synthetics tend to be a little thinner and are more prone to leaking. Castrol GTX is a pretty darn good conventional oil and I have had zero problems with sludge build up when I used it. Stay away from penzoil and other crappy oils. I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my 1990 Volvo 240 with no problems, but I've also rebuilt the engine.

Oh ya and forget the AC...you don't need it. I've driven the past three years with no AC. Also I hate driving with the windows down so it can get 100+F in my car. Oh ya and as for having to get it completely redone, that probably has to do with the fact that your car is more than likely running R12 which is not used anymore because of the ozone problem. R134a is what's used in modern cars and requires a few different parts here and there.

As for your 3rd gear, probably transmission. It's an old car, just don't shift until you're under 2500 rpms, lol.